---
title: "Injuries in Female Elite Climbers: Groundbreaking Research Findings"
url: "https://climbingbrowser.com/blog/injuries-female-elite-climbers-research-2024"
date: "2025-12-02"
author: "ClimbingBrowser Team"
---

# Injuries in Female Elite Climbers: Groundbreaking Research Findings

> The first comprehensive study of injuries in international female elite climbers reveals concerning trends. Over half reported injuries in the past year, with shoulders now surpassing fingers as the most common site.

# Injuries in Female Elite Climbers: What the Research Shows

With climbing's Olympic debut, elite athletes are pushing harder than ever. But at what cost? A groundbreaking study of 114 female IFSC-registered climbers reveals important insights about injury patterns, eating disorders, and what we can do to protect athlete health.

## Key Findings at a Glance

- **53.5%** of elite female climbers reported at least one injury in the past 12 months
- **Shoulders (37.7%)** have overtaken **fingers (34.4%)** as the most common injury site
- Athletes with eating disorders had **2x higher odds** of injury
- **100%** of injured athletes sought medical care (unlike recreational climbers)

## Study Population

The study surveyed 114 elite female climbers:
- **Age**: 22.9 plus/minus 5 years (range: 16-40)
- **30 countries** represented
- **Average BMI**: 20.7 kg/m2 (healthy range)
- **Training**: 3.4 hours/day, 5.2 days/week
- **Competition since**: Age 12.9 on average

## Injury Distribution

| Body Part | Percentage | Number |
|-----------|------------|--------|
| Shoulder | 37.7% | 23 |
| Fingers | 34.4% | 21 |
| Foot/Ankle | 32.8% | 20 |
| Knee | 27.9% | 17 |
| Elbow | 24.6% | 15 |
| Lower Back | 23.0% | 14 |

### Why More Shoulder Injuries?

This is the first climbing study to find [more shoulder injuries than finger injuries](/blog/gender-differences-climbing-injuries-research-2024). Possible explanations:

1. **Route setting evolution** - Modern competition routes feature more dynamic moves, jumps, and severe overhangs
2. **Training changes** - Higher intensity preparation for Olympic-format climbing
3. **No-feet dynos** - Increasingly common in competition, placing extreme loads on shoulders

## The Eating Disorder Connection

A troubling finding: **32.4%** of elite female climbers indicated they had at least one eating disorder.

### Impact on Injury Risk
- Athletes with eating disorders had **2.1x higher odds** of injury
- Energy deficiency during high training loads delays recovery

### Weight Loss Behaviors
Previous research on this population found:
- 38% of female climbers reported intentional weight loss
- 46% of male climbers reported intentional weight loss  
- 76% engaged in concerning weight loss practices

## Implications for Prevention

### For Athletes
1. **Monitor training load increases** - Gradual progressions reduce injury risk
2. **Ensure adequate nutrition** - Energy availability is crucial for tissue repair
3. **Don't ignore warning signs** - Early intervention prevents chronic issues
4. **Include shoulder conditioning** - Specific strengthening for modern climbing demands

### For Coaches and Federations
1. **Screen for eating disorders** - Early identification and intervention
2. **[Monitor menstrual health](/blog/amenorrhea-elite-female-climbers-health)** - A marker for overall energy balance
3. **Consider route setting impacts** - Balance difficulty with injury risk
4. **Provide accessible medical support** - Regular check-ins with sports medicine

## Looking Forward

This study highlights the need for:
- **More research on female climbers** specifically
- **Injury prevention programs** tailored to elite climbers
- **Better health monitoring** protocols
- **Education** for athletes, coaches, and trainers

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*Based on: Gronhaug G, Joubert LM, Saeterbakken AH, Drum SN and Nelson MC (2023) Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers. [Front. Sports Act. Living 5:1121831](https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/sports-and-active-living/articles/10.3389/fspor.2023.1121831/full)*

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Source: [ClimbingBrowser](https://climbingbrowser.com) — free evidence-based climbing training intelligence. Personal AI coaching on WhatsApp: [ClimbClaw](https://climbingbrowser.com/coach).