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ascents

Kayotani Ritsu Climbs 'No One Mourns the Wicked' (9A, 8C+)

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October 26, 2026
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Kayotani Ritsu has made headlines by climbing the boulder problem 'No One Mourns the Wicked,' graded at an impressive 9A (8C+). This achievement places Ritsu among the elite in the bouldering community.

Why it matters

Kayotani Ritsu's climb of 'No One Mourns the Wicked' at the 9A (8C+) grade is monumental within the climbing community. This achievement highlights not only extraordinary finger strength and power but also exceptional technique and tactical mastery. Bouldering at such a high level often requires climbers to engage multiple muscles and skills simultaneously, making it a prime example of how strength, technique, and mental focus converge in tough climbs. For recreational climbers, this ascent can serve as a benchmark to strive toward, demonstrating the importance of not just physical training but also strategic planning during climbs.

The climb emphasizes the significance of both peak performance and recovery in the weekly training regimen. Ritsu likely devoted countless hours to power training, honing his finger strength and enhancing his anaerobic capacity — crucial factors for tackling hard bouldering problems. Recreational climbers can learn from this by focusing their training sessions on specific elements such as maximum strength work, endurance training, and also implementing proper recovery strategies to facilitate muscle repair and growth, which are essential for achieving personal bests.

Training Takeaway

Incorporate focused finger-strength training into your routine this week by using hangboards and doing maximum hang protocols. Also, prioritize recovery by allowing at least two days between intense sessions to prevent fatigue and injuries.

Train Like the Pros

Read full article on 8a.nu

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