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Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training
Develop finger power endurance for sustained hard climbing
Optimized transition program for finger rehab returns (Returning to previous level). 2 sessions/week, 150 moves/week.
Maximum power program for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week with focus on strength and neural adaptation.
Maximum power for advanced climbers (V7-V9). 3x per week, limit strength and power focus.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for weekend warrior v5s (V5-V6). 2 sessions/week, 264 moves/week.
Maximum power program for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week with focus on strength and neural adaptation.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for weekend warrior v5s (V5-V6). 2 sessions/week, 264 moves/week.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for gym to outdoor boulders (V3-V5 gym → V2-V4 outdoor). 3 sessions/week, 325 moves/week.
Maximum power program for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week with focus on strength and neural adaptation.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for lead endurance 6c-7as (6c-7a (pumping out) → 7a+ clean). 3 sessions/week, 423 moves/week.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for weekend warrior v5s (V5-V6). 2 sessions/week, 264 moves/week.
Optimized performance program for lead endurance 6c-7as (6c-7a (pumping out) → 7a+ clean). 3 sessions/week, 311.5 moves/week.
Optimized performance program for lead endurance 7a-7bs (7a-7b → 7b+). 3 sessions/week, 361.5 moves/week.
Optimized performance program for beginner boulderers (V1-V3). 2 sessions/week, 150 moves/week.
Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for finger rehab returns (Returning to previous level). 2 sessions/week, 165 moves/week.
Maximum power program for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week with focus on strength and neural adaptation.
Optimized performance program for lead endurance 6c-7as (6c-7a (pumping out) → 7a+ clean). 3 sessions/week, 311.5 moves/week.
Optimized performance program for lead endurance 7a-7bs (7a-7b → 7b+). 3 sessions/week, 361.5 moves/week.
Optimized performance program for intermediate route climbers (5.11a-5.12a). 3 sessions/week, 328 moves/week.
Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training
Maximum power program for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week with focus on strength and neural adaptation.
Maximum power for advanced climbers (V7-V9). 3x per week, limit strength and power focus.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for beginner boulderers (V1-V3). 2 sessions/week, 150 moves/week.
Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training
Power-Endurance program for beginners (V1-V3). 2x per week, focused on capacity building.
Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training
Maximum power program for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week with focus on strength and neural adaptation.
Maximum power for advanced climbers (V7-V9). 3x per week, limit strength and power focus.
Maximum power program for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week with focus on strength and neural adaptation.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for lead endurance 6c-7as (6c-7a (pumping out) → 7a+ clean). 3 sessions/week, 423 moves/week.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for weekend warrior v5s (V5-V6). 2 sessions/week, 264 moves/week.
Maximum power program for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week with focus on strength and neural adaptation.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for lead endurance 6c-7as (6c-7a (pumping out) → 7a+ clean). 3 sessions/week, 423 moves/week.
Maximum power for advanced climbers (V7-V9). 3x per week, limit strength and power focus.
Power-Endurance program for beginners (V1-V3). 2x per week, focused on capacity building.
Power-Endurance for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week, capacity and anaerobic work.
Develop finger power endurance for sustained hard climbing
Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training
Maximum power program for intermediate climbers (V4-V6). 3x per week with focus on strength and neural adaptation.
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for lead endurance 6c-7as (6c-7a (pumping out) → 7a+ clean). 3 sessions/week, 423 moves/week.
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