Community Pulse

What the climbing world is talking about

Fresh climbing news with training takeaways, the questions climbers keep asking, and the programs they trust.

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training programs indexed
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community analyses

This Week in Climbing

The latest stories, each with a takeaway for your training

ascents
Jul 10

Alex Megos Makes First Ascent of V14/15 in Germany

In a stunning display of strength and skill, Alex Megos has completed the first ascent of a challenging V14/15 boulder problem in Germany. This significant achievement further cements Megos's status as one of the leading climbers in the world.

Training takeaway

This week, focus on integrating specific power-endurance sessions into your training by trying out boulder problem sequences that combine difficult moves with limited rests. Also, prioritize recovery techniques post-training, ensuring to manage your fatigue effectively.

ascents
Jul 10

Leo Bøe Makes 5.15a First Ascent of 425-Foot Single-Pitch Climb

In a remarkable achievement, Leo Bøe has completed the first ascent of a stunning 425-foot single-pitch climb graded 5.15a. This groundbreaking route showcases Bøe's exceptional climbing skills and adds a significant line to the climbing community's repertoire.

Training takeaway

This week, focus on integrating power-endurance training into your routine, such as 4x4s or interval sets on bouldering problems. Additionally, incorporate specific tactical drills to improve your route-reading skills and rest strategies on climbs.

training
Jul 10

Major Rockfall in Banff Destroys Climb and Buries Trees

A significant rockfall in Banff has resulted in the destruction of a popular climbing route and buried several trees in the area. This event raises concerns about safety and the impact of natural events on climbing locations.

Training takeaway

This week, integrate a session focusing on recovery and mental preparedness strategies into your training, emphasizing the importance of alternative climbing options if your primary routes become unsafe. Additionally, enhance your finger strength with specific exercises, such as max hangs or repeaters, to better prepare for any sudden changes in climbing environments.

ascents
Jul 10

Sachi Amma Sends Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15b

Sachi Amma has made waves in the climbing world by sending Chris Sharma's iconic route, Sleeping Lion, graded 5.15b. This impressive feat not only highlights Amma's climbing prowess but also pays homage to one of the sport's legends.

Training takeaway

This week, focus on integrating specific finger strength exercises such as max hangs into your routine, while also including power-endurance workouts like 4x4s to build your stamina and strength for challenging climbs. Emphasize mental training by projecting small climbs that push your comfort zone.

community
Jul 10

Climber Runs, Bikes and Sails to Summit Italy’s 20 Tallest Peaks in 30 Days

A daring adventurer has completed an incredible challenge by running, biking, and sailing to summit Italy's 20 tallest peaks in just 30 days. This unique blend of endurance sports and climbing showcases the spirit of adventure and determination.

Training takeaway

This week, incorporate running or cycling sessions into your training routine to build endurance and enhance your climbing performance. Focus on long, steady efforts followed by a climbing session to simulate the fatigue and recovery associated with tackling long routes.

ascents
Jul 10

Robbie Phillips Flashes Bold 5.13+ Trad in U.K.

Robbie Phillips has made headlines by flashing a bold 5.13+ traditional route in the U.K., demonstrating his exceptional skills and fearless approach to climbing. This achievement adds to his impressive list of climbing accomplishments.

Training takeaway

This week, focus on building power-endurance by incorporating interval training into your climbing sessions. Aim to perform multiple ascents of your project with short rests, simulating the intensity and focus necessary for pushing your limits on difficult routes.

Hot Training Questions

What climbers keep asking on r/climbharder, r/climbing, and r/bouldering

How often should I hangboard without getting injured?

r/climbharder

Why do I keep getting pulley injuries despite proper warmup?

r/climbharder

Should I cut weight while training or focus on one at a time?

r/climbharder

How much finger strength will I lose during extended breaks?

r/climbharder

Is 20mm edge training really the best, or should I train smaller edges?

r/climbharder

How do I engage my pinkies more in half crimps?

r/climbharder

From the community archive

What climbers struggle with

Recurring themes distilled from hundreds of Reddit training discussions

Recurring Pulley Injuries
Technique Regression Under Pressure
Persistent Finger Issues
Load Management Confusion
Finger Strength Plateaus
Training Direction Confusion
Safety Awareness Gaps
Equipment Decision Paralysis

Neurological Adaptation Focus: Users experiencing rapid improvements from hangboarding due to finger recruitment, not just strength

Load Management is Critical: Most injury discussions center on volume management rather than intensity

Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)

Injury Prevention Education: High demand for understanding WHY injuries occur, not just how to treat them

Trending Programs

The highest-rated training programs right now

Push your absolute limits through maximum-effort boulder attempts

9.1/10 Effectiveness
Difficulty 9/10
4-12 weeks
maximum strength
power
movement skills

Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training

8.7/10 Effectiveness
Difficulty 6/10
8-12 weeks
finger-strength
maximum-strength
crimp strength

Build explosive power through high-intensity boulder circuits

8.9/10 Effectiveness
Difficulty 8/10
4-8 weeks
power
maximum strength
movement capacity

Develop finger power endurance for sustained hard climbing

8.3/10 Effectiveness
Difficulty 7/10
6-10 weeks
power-endurance
finger endurance
anaerobic capacity

Build aerobic capacity and forearm endurance through continuous climbing

7.8/10 Effectiveness
Difficulty 4/10
6-12 weeks
aerobic endurance
recovery
base fitness
Perfect Timing
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Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for finger rehab returns (Returning to previous level). 2 sessions/week, 165 moves/week.

10/10 Effectiveness
4 weeks (3+1 pattern)
power
maximum-strength
neural-adaptation

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