Repeaters Protocol for Power Endurance

Develop finger power endurance for sustained hard climbing

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
2-3x per week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
Good base finger strength
8.3
Good Effectiveness
Top 35% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power-endurance
finger endurance
anaerobic capacity

Program Overview

The Repeaters protocol targets the critical gap between maximum strength and endurance - power endurance. This training method uses repeated 7-second hangs with minimal rest to develop the ability to maintain high force output over multiple moves.

Perfect for sport climbers tackling long routes or boulderers working extended problems, repeaters build the specific endurance needed for sustained hard climbing.

What You'll Get

  • ✓6-10 weeks structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power-endurance
  • • Can train 2-3x per week
  • • Committed to a 6-10 weeks training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency
  • • New to climbing training programs (try beginner programs first)

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Finger Training Protocols
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Competition Preparation
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Finger Strength Progression
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Campus Board Training
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Body image concerns
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Outdoor preparation
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Board climbing (Kilter focus)
Result: V6 flash grade approaching, improved movement quality
⏱️ ~1 year
• Consistent 2-3x/week board sessions
Program: Density hangs to repeaters progression
Result: Half crimp MVC increased from 30kg to 36-42kg
⏱️ Several months
• Returning climber, <50% bodyweight starting point
Program: Combined board climbing + physical training
Result: V13 breakthrough send (Tilted World)
⏱️ Ongoing
• Advanced climber, 13.5 years experience

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. How to progress from gym grades to board climbing difficulty?
  2. What's the best way to prepare for outdoor climbing trips?
  3. Is it worth repeating climbs you've already sent for technique improvement?
  4. How do you deal with body changes from climbing training?
  5. What exercises can improve climbing without actually climbing?

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Board climbing reality check
    low frequency
  • •
    Height disadvantages
    low frequency
  • •
    Outdoor preparation anxiety
    low frequency
  • •
    Body image struggles
    low frequency
  • •
    Fall technique fears
    low frequency
  • •
    Training App Disappointment - High severity: New Lattice app lacking assessment protocols and customization
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Max Hangs
Mostly positive sentiment, recommended for finger strength gains
positive
8+ mentions
Repeaters/CF Repeaters
Positive sentiment, especially for endurance blocks
positive
6+ mentions
4x4s
Positive for power endurance and trip preparation
positive
5+ mentions
Board Climbing (Kilter/Moonboard)
Mixed sentiment (powerful but dangerous)
mixed
12+ mentions
ARC Training
Positive for endurance base building
positive
4+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Board climbing transition guides: High demand for content bridging gym climbing to standardized board difficulties
  • 💡Outdoor preparation protocols: Specific training plans for popular destinations (NRG, Red Rocks, etc.)
  • 💡Body-positive climbing content: Female climbers need representation of strong, athletic body types as beautiful
  • 💡Height-adaptive techniques: Content for shorter climbers dealing with reach limitations
  • 💡Grade inflation awareness: Strong awareness that gym grades don't translate to outdoor/board standards
  • 💡Technique over strength focus: Repeated emphasis that technique beats raw power, especially on slab
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Technique Over Strength: Strong community emphasis on movement quality and efficiency over raw power, especially for beginners and intermediates"

"Injury Prevention Priority: High awareness of finger injuries and need for progressive, safe training protocols"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering