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What the climbing community is talking about this week
Most popular training programs this week
Push your absolute limits through maximum-effort boulder attempts
Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training
Build aerobic capacity and forearm endurance through continuous climbing
Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for finger rehab returns (Returning to previous level). 2 sessions/week, 165 moves/week.
From 8 Reddit discussions across climbing communities
High frequency issue, especially A2/A4 on middle/ring fingers among taller/heavier climbers
Common pattern where climbers revert to caveman mode on limit climbs
Long-term synovitis, capsulitis, and chronic finger problems lasting 18+ months
Difficulty balancing training intensity with injury prevention
Climbers feeling weak for their grade despite training efforts
Multiple discussions around hangboard protocols, edge sizes, and neurological adaptations from finger training
Breaking stories from the climbing world
Climbers in North Wales are encouraged to attend the BMC area meeting, where they can share ideas and discuss local climbing developments.
Climbers in the London and South East regions are invited to attend the BMC area meeting, where they can engage with fellow climbers and discuss regional climbing matters.
The BMC Yorkshire area meeting is set to take place, providing a platform for local climbers to discuss important issues and upcoming events in the climbing community.
The BMC Peak area meeting is scheduled, inviting climbers to gather and discuss important climbing topics and events in the Peak District.
The BMC Midlands area meeting is coming up, providing an opportunity for climbers to engage with their community and discuss regional climbing issues.
A newly established 5.13 trad route has been making waves in the climbing community due to its challenging nature and the potential for a significant 20-metre fall. This route is sure to test the skills and courage of climbers looking for their next adventure.
Neurological Adaptation Focus: Users experiencing rapid improvements from hangboarding due to finger recruitment, not just strength
Load Management is Critical: Most injury discussions center on volume management rather than intensity
Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)
Injury Prevention Education: High demand for understanding WHY injuries occur, not just how to treat them
Outdoor vs Indoor Training: Users noting significant differences in training transfer
Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries
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