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ascents

Kwon Gaeun, 13, Sends Puro Dreaming Plus (9a/+)

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November 5, 2026
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Young prodigy Kwon Gaeun has made waves in the climbing community by sending 'Puro Dreaming Plus,' a route graded at 9a/+. At only 13 years old, her achievement marks her as one of the rising stars in the sport.

Why it matters

Kwon Gaeun's remarkable ascent of 'Puro Dreaming Plus,' a 9a/+ route, exemplifies the peak of physical ability and technical skill that climbers aspire to. At 13, her achievement is a testament to both her training regimen and natural talent, underscoring the importance of developing finger strength and overall power. Recreational climbers can take inspiration from her training, which likely incorporates structured strength cycles and endurance training to build the physical capacity needed to tackle such difficult routes. This highlights the value of having a focused training plan that emphasizes diverse aspects, such as power, endurance, and technique.

Furthermore, Gaeun's success accentuates the significance of mental conditioning in climbing. High-performance climbing not only demands physical prowess but also strategic thinking and mental toughness during ascents. For recreational climbers, incorporating mental training techniques—like visualization and problem-solving during practice—can enhance performance and help tackle challenging routes. Learning to focus under pressure and developing tactics for difficult sections of climbs can lead to breakthroughs in personal goals, mirroring what elite climbers like Gaeun might practice in their training.

Training Takeaway

Prioritize a power-endurance workout this week, focusing on interval training such as 4x4s or bouldering circuits. Incorporating these into your routine will help improve your ability to perform on difficult climbs without reaching fatigue too quickly.

Train Like the Pros

Read full article on 8a.nu

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