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ascents

Oriane Bertone Makes First Female Ascent of The Big Island V15

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November 3, 2026
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Oriane Bertone has achieved a groundbreaking milestone by completing the first female ascent of The Big Island, a challenging V15 boulder problem. Her accomplishment marks a significant moment in climbing history.

Why it matters

Oriane Bertone's groundbreaking ascent of The Big Island, a V15 bouldering problem, is a compelling reminder of the physical and mental demands that high-level climbing entails. It underscores that achieving elite status in climbing is contingent upon developing not just raw power and finger strength, but also refining technique and tactical thinking. While the physical requirements can seem daunting, they highlight key elements of training that anyone—from novice to intermediate climbers—can and should integrate into their regimen. For instance, Bertone likely optimized her training around specific finger-strength protocols and power-endurance workouts, which are crucial for tackling such difficult grades.

This achievement also emphasizes the spirit of persistence and resilience in climbing. Recreational climbers can learn from Bertone's dedication to testing her limits. Strategies such as interval training, rest days for recovery, and focused sessions on specific climbing techniques can propel your growth. The journey to master challenging climbs is not just about strength but also about mental fortitude and patience—qualities that every climber should cultivate. Engaging with challenging problems regularly can help instill this mindset, fostering the resilience needed to push through to higher grades, just as Bertone has done on this landmark ascent.

Related Training

Max Hangs Protocol for Maximum Finger Strength

Build maximum finger strength with evidence-based max hang training

8-12 weeks•V5/5.12a

Beginner Boulderer - Transition

Transition phase for beginners (V1-V3). 2x per week, active recovery and preparation.

2 weeks•V0-V2

Intermediate Boulderer - Build-up 2 (Power)

Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for intermediate boulderers (V4-V6). 3 sessions/week, 326.5 moves/week.

Training Takeaway

Incorporate specific finger-strength exercises into your training routine this week, such as max hangs or campus board workouts, to boost your grip power. Additionally, focus on endurance with interval sessions, aiming to climb at your limit for short bursts followed by rest to build overall capacity.

Train Like the Pros

Take your climbing to the next level with evidence-based training programs designed for all skill levels.

Read full article on Gripped

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4 weeks (3+1 pattern)
•V4

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