Beginner Boulderer - Build-up 1 (PE)

Optimized build-up 1 (pe) program for beginner boulderers (V1-V3). 2 sessions/week, 380 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session

60-90 min/session

Frequency

2 sessions/week

Equipment

Gym only

Prerequisites

Able to climb V1-V3

10

Exceptional Effectiveness

Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:

power-endurance

capacity

interval-training

bouldering

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for beginner boulderers (V1-V3)

New to structured training, focusing on building base endurance and movement quality

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
Week 2: 100% volume (build)
Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 2 sessions/week Session Duration: 90 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 380 moves Fitness Score: 1880.0/100

Weekly Schedule

Tuesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Friday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue.

Key Principles

Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

Indoor climbing wall
Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
Timer
Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

• Those wanting to improve power-endurance
• Can train 2 sessions/week
• Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

• Currently dealing with climbing injuries
• Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

•
Board Training as Primary Method
1+ mentions
•
Injury Management & Load Management
1+ mentions
•
Periodization for Specific Trips
1+ mentions
•
New Training Apps
1+ mentions
•
Finger Training Protocols
1+ mentions
•
Finger strength for rapid progressors
1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: High volume board climbing

Result: V13 breakthrough after plateau

⏱️ Several months

• User stuck at lower grades finally broke through with consistent board training

Program: Volume increase (33% more time)

Result: First moonboard send after years of trying

⏱️ 2-3 months

• Previously stuck at V5, now progressing on boards

Program: Weighted hangboarding with conservative progression

Result: Injury-free climbing for 1+ years

⏱️ 12+ months

• Previously constant pulley injuries

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

How much hangboarding is too much alongside board climbing?
What's the best approach for small edge training - smaller edges or more weight on larger edges?
How to structure lead climbing sessions for breaking into 5.12s from 5.11 level?
When to prioritize technique vs strength training at intermediate levels (V5-V7)?
How to manage training volume as a heavier/taller climber without constant injuries?

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

•
Recurring Pulley Injuries
low frequency
•
Board Climbing Intimidation
low frequency
•
Training App Disappointment
low frequency
•
Overhang Weakness
low frequency
•
Load Management Confusion
low frequency
•
Finger pain in rapid progressors
low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Moonboard Training

Mixed sentiment, challenging but effective for strong climbers

mixed

20+ mentions

Emil's No-hang Protocol

Very positive for injury prevention/rehab

positive

15+ mentions

C4HP Finger Curls

Positive for finger health and strength

positive

10+ mentions

Lattice Training Plans

Mixed to negative (new app criticism, but coaching still valued)

negative

8+ mentions

Max Hangs (Various protocols)

Positive when done conservatively

positive

12+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

💡Volume vs Intensity Balance is Critical: Most training failures stem from too much intensity without adequate recovery. Users need clear guidance on managing training load.
💡Board Training is Becoming Essential: Multiple users credit board climbing for breakthroughs, but entry barrier is high. Consider progressive board protocols.
💡Injury Prevention is Top Priority: Pulley injuries are epidemic among intermediate+ climbers. Programs must emphasize conservative progression and load management.
💡Assessment-Based Programming is Desired: Users frustrated with generic programs - they want training matched to their specific weaknesses and strengths.
💡Height/Weight Adaptations Needed: Heavier/taller climbers consistently struggle more with injuries and need modified approaches.
💡Real-World Application Focus: Users want training that translates to outdoor climbing and specific trip goals, not just gym grades.

Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering

💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Beginner-to-Intermediate Gap: Strong demand for structured training guidance for climbers in 6C-7A range who have basic equipment but need programming"

"Technique Over Strength: Strong community emphasis on movement quality and efficiency over raw power, especially for beginners and intermediates"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering