Finger Rehab Return - Performance

Performance program for finger rehab returns (Returning to previous level)

Returning from pulley injury? Progressive loading protocol to safely rebuild finger strength and confidence

Peak performance period for projects and redpoint attempts. Minimal volume, maximum quality.

This 4-week mesocycle follows the Carlos V3 3+1 pattern: three progressive loading weeks followed by a deload week.

Program Details

Training Frequency: 2 sessions/week Session Duration: 60 minutes Weekly Volume: ~163 moves at full (100%) volume — each week below scales this target

Week 1 — Introduction (80% volume)

Learn the exercises, establish movement patterns, dial intensity.

Weekly volume target: ~130 moves (80% of full volume). Start at the bottom end of each prescribed set/rep range while you learn the exercises and dial in the intensities.

Monday

Warm Up

• 15-20min easy climbing
• Intensity: 40%
• Duration: 15-20 min

SB Sets (V3)

• 2-3 X 3-4 X 4-6 move : 2min / 4min
• Intensity: 90%
• Duration: 30-50 min

Push-ups (V3)

• 3 X 12-15 reps : 90s
• Intensity: 50%
• Duration: 5-10 min

Triceps Curls (TRX) (V3)

• 3 X 12 reps : 90s
• Intensity: 45%
• Duration: 5-8 min

Bench Press (V3)

• 3 X 10 reps : 90s
• Intensity: 55%
• Duration: 5-10 min

Thursday

Warm Up

• 15-20min easy climbing
• Intensity: 40%
• Duration: 15-20 min

SB Sets (V3)

• 2-3 X 3-4 X 4-6 move : 2min / 4min
• Intensity: 90%
• Duration: 30-50 min

Biceps Curls (TRX) (V3)

• 3 X 12 reps : 90s
• Intensity: 45%
• Duration: 5-8 min

Triceps Curls (TRX) (V3)

• 3 X 12 reps : 90s
• Intensity: 45%
• Duration: 5-8 min

Front Butterfly (TRX) (V3)

• 3 X 12 reps : 90s
• Intensity: 45%
• Duration: 5-8 min

Rest: Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday

Week 2 — Build (100% volume)

Full prescribed volume.

Weekly volume target: ~163 moves.

Repeat the Week 1 sessions (Monday, Thursday) — same exercises, same intensities — now at the full prescribed volume: use the complete set/rep ranges exactly as written above.

Week 3 — Peak (110% volume)

Increase volume or intensity.

Weekly volume target: ~179 moves (+10% over Week 2).

Same sessions (Monday, Thursday), same exercises and intensities as Week 1. Push volume to the top end of each prescribed set/rep range to add roughly 10% over Week 2. Warm-up stays unscaled.

Week 4 — Deload (60% volume)

Reduce volume, maintain intensity, recover.

Weekly volume target: ~98 moves (deload).

Deload week. Same sessions (Monday, Thursday) at the same intensities, but cut total volume to ~60%: drop to the bottom end of each set/rep range and finish each session early. Recovery is the goal — do not add work. Warm-up stays unscaled.

Key Principles

• Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
• Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
• Volume follows the 3+1 week pattern (80% → 100% → 110% → 60%)
• Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Generated and validated by the ClimbClaw training engine (Carlos V3 methodology).