Gym to Outdoor Sport - Base Training

Optimized base training program for gym to outdoor sports (5.10d gym → 5.10a-5.10c outdoor). 3 sessions/week, 1402 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
endurance
aerobic-base
movement-economy
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Base Training program for gym to outdoor sports (5.10d gym → 5.10a-5.10c outdoor)

Transition from plastic to rock with mental game training, route reading skills, and outdoor-specific endurance

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 1402 moves Fitness Score: 2185.8/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Building aerobic endurance foundation through high-volume, low-intensity work. Focus on movement quality and preparing the body for more intensive training.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve endurance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Body image concerns
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Outdoor preparation
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Board climbing humility
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Weight loss and climbing
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Beginner progression
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Beta Breaks & Creative Solutions
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Self-set project training
Result: V8 outdoor send after weeks of projecting
⏱️ Multiple sessions
• Experienced climber working cave sequences
Program: Technique-focused training
Result: Improved dynamic movement and coordination
⏱️ 3 years progression
• Started overweight, now campusing confidently
Program: Consistent gym training
Result: V5+ sends and dynamic ability
⏱️ 1 year
• 40-year-old beginner showing rapid improvement

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. How to progress from gym grades to board climbing difficulty?
  2. What's the best way to prepare for outdoor climbing trips?
  3. Is it worth repeating climbs you've already sent for technique improvement?
  4. How do you deal with body changes from climbing training?
  5. What exercises can improve climbing without actually climbing?

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Board climbing reality check
    low frequency
  • •
    Height disadvantages
    low frequency
  • •
    Outdoor preparation anxiety
    low frequency
  • •
    Body image struggles
    low frequency
  • •
    Fall technique fears
    low frequency
  • •
    No-texture holds causing safety concerns - Multiple complaints about dangerous, friction-less holds
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Max Hangs/Finger Training
neutral (discussion of effectiveness)
neutral
2+ mentions
Campus Training
positive (achievement celebration)
positive
3+ mentions
Dynamic Movement Practice
positive (progression stories)
positive
5+ mentions
Technique Drilling
positive (footwork, body positioning focus)
positive
8+ mentions
Project-specific Training
positive (sustained effort paying off)
positive
4+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Board climbing transition guides: High demand for content bridging gym climbing to standardized board difficulties
  • 💡Outdoor preparation protocols: Specific training plans for popular destinations (NRG, Red Rocks, etc.)
  • 💡Body-positive climbing content: Female climbers need representation of strong, athletic body types as beautiful
  • 💡Height-adaptive techniques: Content for shorter climbers dealing with reach limitations
  • 💡Grade inflation awareness: Strong awareness that gym grades don't translate to outdoor/board standards
  • 💡Technique over strength focus: Repeated emphasis that technique beats raw power, especially on slab
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Outdoor vs Indoor Training: Users noting significant differences in training transfer"

"Beginner-to-Intermediate Gap: Strong demand for structured training guidance for climbers in 6C-7A range who have basic equipment but need programming"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering