Gym to Outdoor Sport - Build-up 2 (Power)

Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for gym to outdoor sports (5.10d gym → 5.10a-5.10c outdoor). 3 sessions/week, 320.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power
maximum-strength
neural-adaptation
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 2 (Power) program for gym to outdoor sports (5.10d gym → 5.10a-5.10c outdoor)

Transition from plastic to rock with mental game training, route reading skills, and outdoor-specific endurance

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 320.5 moves Fitness Score: 1247.0/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Maximizing power and strength through high-intensity, low-volume work with complete recovery. CNS adaptations are the priority.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • Long-term Project Development
    1+ mentions
  • Ethics in Elite Climbing
    1+ mentions
  • Forearm Endurance Issues
    1+ mentions
  • Skin Care Management
    1+ mentions
  • Equipment Sizing Questions
    1+ mentions
  • Fear Management
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Long-term dedication and persistence
Result:
⏱️
Result: First 5.14a after 2+ years of work (Funky Dunky)
⏱️
Program: Consistent climbing progression
Result:
⏱️

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **How tight should climbing shoes fit?** - Multiple beginners asking about proper shoe sizing and toe curling
  2. **How do I overcome fear of falling in bouldering?** - Climbers transitioning from rope climbing struggle with commitment
  3. **What's normal for forearm endurance?** - Climbers questioning if rapid pump is medical issue vs normal
  4. **How often should I hangboard as a beginner?** - 16-year-old V7-V8 climber asking about training structure
  5. **How do I remember to tie a bowline?** - Repeated requests for mnemonic devices and practice tips

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • Rapid forearm pump (High frequency) - Multiple climbers reporting unusually quick fatigue compared to peers
    low frequency
  • Climbing shoe fit confusion (High frequency) - Beginners unsure about proper sizing and pain tolerance
    low frequency
  • Finger pain from rapid progression (Medium frequency) - Climbers advancing faster than finger strength development
    low frequency
  • Fear of falling limiting progression (Medium frequency) - Rope climbers struggling with bouldering commitment
    low frequency
  • Equipment age/safety concerns (Medium frequency) - Uncertainty about when to retire gear
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Hangboarding
Mixed sentiment (beginners asking if too early, experienced asking for structure)
mixed
3+ mentions
Volume/Technique focus
Positive sentiment from young climber seeking advice
positive
2+ mentions
Max Hangs
Neutral (asking for guidance)
neutral
1+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Grade-specific content gaps: Strong demand for beginner guidance (5.6-5.10 range) and intermediate plateau breaking
  • 💡Equipment education need: Many safety questions about gear age, sizing, and proper use - opportunity for educational content
  • 💡Mental training demand: Fear of falling is a major limiting factor, especially for rope-to-boulder transitions
  • 💡Injury prevention focus: High frequency of finger/forearm issues from rapid progression - need preventative training content
  • 💡Ethics education opportunity: Community clearly cares about climbing ethics - good engagement topic
  • 💡Local community building: Users seeking partners and local knowledge - geographic matching potential
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Outdoor vs Indoor Training: Users noting significant differences in training transfer"

"Outdoor Transfer Gap: Significant discussion about gym vs outdoor performance suggests need for programs specifically designed to bridge this gap"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering