Gym to Outdoor Sport - Performance

Performance program for gym to outdoor sports (5.10d gym → 5.10a-5.10c outdoor)

Transition from plastic to rock with mental game training, route reading skills, and outdoor-specific endurance

Peak performance period for projects and redpoint attempts. Minimal volume, maximum quality.

This 4-week mesocycle follows the Carlos V3 3+1 pattern: three progressive loading weeks followed by a deload week.

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Weekly Volume: ~296 moves at full (100%) volume — each week below scales this target

Week 1 — Introduction (80% volume)

Learn the exercises, establish movement patterns, dial intensity.

Weekly volume target: ~236 moves (80% of full volume). Start at the bottom end of each prescribed set/rep range while you learn the exercises and dial in the intensities.

Monday

Warm Up

• 15-20min easy climbing
• Intensity: 40%
• Duration: 15-20 min

SB Sets (V4)

• 2-3 X 3-4 X 4-6 move : 2min / 4min
• Intensity: 90%
• Duration: 30-50 min

Route Redpoint (7a-7b)

• 1-3 routes, multiple attempts, 10-20min rest
• Intensity: 100%
• Duration: 60-120 min

Reverse Butterfly (TRX) (V4)

• 3 X 12 reps : 90s
• Intensity: 45%
• Duration: 5-8 min

Wednesday

Warm Up

• 15-20min easy climbing
• Intensity: 40%
• Duration: 15-20 min

SB Sets (V4)

• 2-3 X 3-4 X 4-6 move : 2min / 4min
• Intensity: 90%
• Duration: 30-50 min

SB Redpoint (V4)

• 2-3 X ? X 4-8 move : 3-4' / 5-10'
• Intensity: 100%
• Duration: 50-120 min

Core Strength (V4)

• 3-4 X 45-60s : 2min
• Intensity: 85%
• Duration: 15-20 min

Saturday

Warm Up

• 15-20min easy climbing
• Intensity: 40%
• Duration: 15-20 min

VSB Sets (V6)

• 3-4 X 5-6 X 1-3 move : 1.5min / 3min
• Intensity: 95%
• Duration: 25-45 min

Finger Strength (Deadhangs) (V6)

• 3-5 X 10s(3s) / 2-3min
• Intensity: 100%
• Duration: 15-25 min

Boulder Redpoint (V3)

• 2-4 problems, multiple attempts, 5-15min rest
• Intensity: 100%
• Duration: 60-120 min

Push-ups (V4)

• 3 X 12-15 reps : 90s
• Intensity: 50%
• Duration: 5-10 min

Rest: Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday

Week 2 — Build (100% volume)

Full prescribed volume.

Weekly volume target: ~296 moves.

Repeat the Week 1 sessions (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday) — same exercises, same intensities — now at the full prescribed volume: use the complete set/rep ranges exactly as written above.

Week 3 — Peak (110% volume)

Increase volume or intensity.

Weekly volume target: ~325 moves (+10% over Week 2).

Same sessions (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday), same exercises and intensities as Week 1. Push volume to the top end of each prescribed set/rep range to add roughly 10% over Week 2. Warm-up stays unscaled.

Week 4 — Deload (60% volume)

Reduce volume, maintain intensity, recover.

Weekly volume target: ~177 moves (deload).

Deload week. Same sessions (Monday, Wednesday, Saturday) at the same intensities, but cut total volume to ~60%: drop to the bottom end of each set/rep range and finish each session early. Recovery is the goal — do not add work. Warm-up stays unscaled.

Key Principles

• Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
• Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
• Volume follows the 3+1 week pattern (80% → 100% → 110% → 60%)
• Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Generated and validated by the ClimbClaw training engine (Carlos V3 methodology).