Finger Rehab Return - Base Training

Optimized base training program for finger rehab returns (Returning to previous level). 2 sessions/week, 1086 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
2 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
1 requirements
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
endurance
aerobic-base
movement-economy

Program Overview

Optimized Base Training program for finger rehab returns (Returning to previous level)

Returning from pulley injury? Progressive loading protocol to safely rebuild finger strength and confidence

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 2 sessions/week Session Duration: 60 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 1086 moves Fitness Score: 2073.4/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Thursday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Building aerobic endurance foundation through high-volume, low-intensity work. Focus on movement quality and preparing the body for more intensive training.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve endurance
  • • Can train 2 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Finger Strength Training
    4+ mentions
  • •
    Competition Preparation
    3+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Effectiveness
    3+ mentions
  • •
    Youth Competition Training
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Forearm Endurance Issues
    2+ mentions
  • •
    Board Climbing Best Practices
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Board climbing (Kilter focus)
Result: V6 flash grade approaching, improved movement quality
⏱️ ~1 year
• Consistent 2-3x/week board sessions
Program: Density hangs to repeaters progression
Result: Half crimp MVC increased from 30kg to 36-42kg
⏱️ Several months
• Returning climber, <50% bodyweight starting point
Program: Combined board climbing + physical training
Result: V13 breakthrough send (Tilted World)
⏱️ Ongoing
• Advanced climber, 13.5 years experience

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **How often should I do hangboard training for endurance?** - Multiple users asking about simple protocols for aerobic capacity without finger strength focus
  2. **What's the best board climbing frequency to avoid injury?** - Concerns about volume management and finger safety on system boards
  3. **How do I maintain/rebuild endurance after time off?** - Post-vacation/injury endurance loss and recovery protocols
  4. **Are pull-ups helping my climbing performance?** - Questions about transfer from general strength to climbing-specific performance
  5. **What grades indicate board climbing readiness?** - Safety thresholds for intensive board training

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Youth Training Safety
    medium frequency
  • •
    Finger injury frequency on boards - High severity, multiple mentions of friends getting tweaked
    low frequency
  • •
    Endurance loss during breaks - High frequency, 1 month off causing significant capacity drops
    low frequency
  • •
    Expensive youth programs - $250+/month pricing creating accessibility barriers
    low frequency
  • •
    Skin limitations during training - Moderate frequency, affecting volume and consistency
    low frequency
  • •
    Hip pain/mobility issues - Recurring theme affecting climbing performance
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Max Hangs
Mostly positive sentiment, recommended for finger strength gains
positive
8+ mentions
Repeaters/CF Repeaters
Positive sentiment, especially for endurance blocks
positive
6+ mentions
4x4s
Positive for power endurance and trip preparation
positive
5+ mentions
Board Climbing (Kilter/Moonboard)
Mixed sentiment (powerful but dangerous)
mixed
12+ mentions
ARC Training
Positive for endurance base building
positive
4+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Volume management is critical: Users consistently struggle with balancing intensity and frequency, especially on boards - suggest built-in volume tracking and warnings
  • 💡Endurance training needs simplification: Multiple requests for "simple effective" protocols suggest current options are too complex
  • 💡Real success stories validate programs: Users citing specific timeframes and results (V4→V6 in 8 weeks, 30kg→42kg MVC) provide powerful social proof
  • 💡Safety education is essential: Board climbing seen as "playing with fire" - integrate injury prevention content prominently
  • 💡Trip-specific training is popular: Structured preparation for destinations like Céüse shows demand for goal-oriented programming
  • 💡Accessibility concerns are real: $250/month youth programs highlight need for home/budget training options
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Neurological Adaptation Focus: Users experiencing rapid improvements from hangboarding due to finger recruitment, not just strength"

"Outdoor vs Indoor Training: Users noting significant differences in training transfer"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering