Intermediate Mixed Climber - Build-up 1 (PE)

Optimized build-up 1 (pe) program for intermediate mixed climbers (V4-V5 / 5.11b-5.11d). 3 sessions/week, 1075 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power-endurance
capacity
interval-training

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for intermediate mixed climbers (V4-V5 / 5.11b-5.11d)

Balanced training for both bouldering and route climbing

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 120 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 1075 moves Fitness Score: 1891.5/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power-endurance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Board Climbing Best Practices
    1+ mentions
  • •
    CARCing vs Long Duration Holds
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Endurance Training Methods
    1+ mentions
  • •
    European Trip Preparation
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Competition Preparation
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Finger Strength Progression
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Board climbing (Kilter focus)
Result: V6 flash grade approaching, improved movement quality
⏱️ ~1 year
• Consistent 2-3x/week board sessions
Program: Density hangs to repeaters progression
Result: Half crimp MVC increased from 30kg to 36-42kg
⏱️ Several months
• Returning climber, <50% bodyweight starting point
Program: Combined board climbing + physical training
Result: V13 breakthrough send (Tilted World)
⏱️ Ongoing
• Advanced climber, 13.5 years experience

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **How often should I do hangboard training for endurance?** - Multiple users asking about simple protocols for aerobic capacity without finger strength focus
  2. **What's the best board climbing frequency to avoid injury?** - Concerns about volume management and finger safety on system boards
  3. **How do I maintain/rebuild endurance after time off?** - Post-vacation/injury endurance loss and recovery protocols
  4. **Are pull-ups helping my climbing performance?** - Questions about transfer from general strength to climbing-specific performance
  5. **What grades indicate board climbing readiness?** - Safety thresholds for intensive board training

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Finger injury frequency on boards - High severity, multiple mentions of friends getting tweaked
    low frequency
  • •
    Endurance loss during breaks - High frequency, 1 month off causing significant capacity drops
    low frequency
  • •
    Expensive youth programs - $250+/month pricing creating accessibility barriers
    low frequency
  • •
    Skin limitations during training - Moderate frequency, affecting volume and consistency
    low frequency
  • •
    Hip pain/mobility issues - Recurring theme affecting climbing performance
    low frequency
  • •
    Fall anxiety and confidence loss (HIGH frequency) - Major barrier after injuries
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Max Hangs
Mostly positive sentiment, recommended for finger strength gains
positive
8+ mentions
Repeaters/CF Repeaters
Positive sentiment, especially for endurance blocks
positive
6+ mentions
4x4s
Positive for power endurance and trip preparation
positive
5+ mentions
Board Climbing (Kilter/Moonboard)
Mixed sentiment (powerful but dangerous)
mixed
12+ mentions
ARC Training
Positive for endurance base building
positive
4+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Volume management is critical: Users consistently struggle with balancing intensity and frequency, especially on boards - suggest built-in volume tracking and warnings
  • 💡Endurance training needs simplification: Multiple requests for "simple effective" protocols suggest current options are too complex
  • 💡Real success stories validate programs: Users citing specific timeframes and results (V4→V6 in 8 weeks, 30kg→42kg MVC) provide powerful social proof
  • 💡Safety education is essential: Board climbing seen as "playing with fire" - integrate injury prevention content prominently
  • 💡Trip-specific training is popular: Structured preparation for destinations like Céüse shows demand for goal-oriented programming
  • 💡Accessibility concerns are real: $250/month youth programs highlight need for home/budget training options
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering