Intermediate Route Climber - Build-up 1 (PE)

Optimized build-up 1 (pe) program for intermediate route climbers (5.11a-5.12a). 3 sessions/week, 1115.5 moves/week.

At a Glance

Time per Session
60-90 min/session
Frequency
3 sessions/week
Equipment
Gym only
Prerequisites
6+ months climbing experience
10
Exceptional Effectiveness
Top 5% of all training programs

Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.

Focus Areas:
power-endurance
capacity
interval-training
sport-climbing
route-climbing

Program Overview

Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for intermediate route climbers (5.11a-5.12a)

Building route-specific endurance and power-endurance capacity

This program has been generated using genetic algorithm optimization following Carlos V3 methodology. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments:

  • Week 1: 80% volume (introduction)
  • Week 2: 100% volume (build)
  • Week 3: 110% volume (peak)
  • Week 4: 60% volume (deload)

Program Details

Training Frequency: 3 sessions/week Session Duration: 150 minutes Total Weekly Volume: 1115.5 moves Fitness Score: 1931.5/100

Weekly Schedule

Monday

Rest day or light mobility work

Wednesday

Rest day or light mobility work

Saturday

Rest day or light mobility work

Training Focus

Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue.

Key Principles

  • Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session
  • Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises
  • Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern
  • Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue

Equipment Required

  • Indoor climbing wall
  • Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises)
  • Timer
  • Training log

Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization

What You'll Get

  • ✓4 weeks (3+1 pattern) structured training plan with detailed workout instructions
  • ✓Week-by-week progression to safely build your climbing performance
  • ✓Progress tracking guidelines to measure your improvements

Target Audience

✅ Ideal For

  • • Those wanting to improve power-endurance
  • • Can train 3 sessions/week
  • • Committed to a 4 weeks (3+1 pattern) training cycle

⚠️ Not Recommended If

  • • Currently dealing with climbing injuries
  • • Unable to commit to the required training frequency

Training Topics Trending This Week

What the community is discussing right now

  • •
    Equipment troubleshooting
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Long-term project commitment
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Recovery and injury
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Campus board training
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Hangboard Protocols
    1+ mentions
  • •
    Training Periodization
    1+ mentions

Success Stories

Real results from climbers in the community

Program: Long-term project work
Result:
⏱️
Program: Post-injury recovery mindset
Result:
⏱️
Program: First structured hangboarding routine
Result: Immediate breakthrough on crimpy climbs
⏱️ Few weeks
• Started with no weight, added 5lbs per week up to 90lbs over a year

Common Questions

Questions the community is asking about this topic

  1. **Gear compatibility and safety**: "Is it okay to use HMS carabiners plus sling as quickdraw?" - Equipment substitution concerns
  2. **Shoe fit evolution**: "Why do my 10+ year old shoes suddenly feel unbearable?" - Long-term gear changes and foot adaptation
  3. **Training board rules**: "Can you use same hold with different hands on tension board no-match problems?" - Training protocol clarification
  4. How to transition from strength-focused training to technique improvement when getting strong but climbing inefficiently?
  5. What's the optimal balance between hangboard training frequency and climbing volume to avoid overuse injuries?

Pain Points & Problems

Challenges climbers are facing

  • •
    Equipment longevity and fit changes
    low frequency
  • •
    Injury-forced breaks
    low frequency
  • •
    Project commitment sustainability
    low frequency
  • •
    Recurring pulley injuries (high frequency/severity) - Multiple climbers reporting chronic A2/A4 issues despite following rehab protocols
    low frequency
  • •
    Technique plateaus (moderate frequency/moderate severity) - Strong climbers unable to access technique under pressure
    low frequency
  • •
    Training program confusion (high frequency/low severity) - Uncertainty about structuring weekly training between climbing, hangboarding, and strength work
    low frequency

Program Mentions Summary

How the community feels about related programs

Campus Board Training
positive/recreational sentiment
positive
3+ mentions
Long-term Projecting
mixed (success but questioning sustainability)
mixed
2+ mentions
Post-injury Recovery
positive/determined sentiment
positive
2+ mentions
Training Board Protocols
neutral/seeking clarification
neutral
1+ mentions
Max Hangs
mostly positive sentiment, some confusion about progression rates
positive
15+ mentions

Key Insights for ClimbingBrowser

Strategic insights from community analysis

  • 💡Project Persistence Support: Create tools to track long-term projects and maintain motivation through extended attempt periods - the 250+ attempt success story shows this is a real need
  • 💡Equipment Evolution Guidance: Develop resources for climbers dealing with gear fit changes over time, especially for those returning after breaks or experiencing foot changes
  • 💡Recovery Integration: Build features supporting climbers through injury recovery with alternative training suggestions and comeback planning - clear demand from shoulder surgery discussion
  • 💡Training Clarification Hub: Create clear, accessible explanations for common training protocol questions (board rules, equipment substitutions) as these basic questions appear frequently
  • 💡Community Motivation Tools: Develop features that help climbers stay connected and motivated during forced breaks (injury, life circumstances) as isolation during off-periods appears to be a significant concern
  • 💡Finger strength training is the most discussed topic - Users need clear protocols for safe progression from beginner to advanced hangboarding
Data collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
💬COMMUNITY FEEDBACK

Real Climbers Say...

💡 Community Insights:

"Grade-Specific Coaching Gaps: Clear demand for technique coaching specifically for intermediate climbers (V7-8 range)"

"Body Weight Considerations: Taller/heavier climbers struggling more with finger injuries"

Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering