Jakob Schubert Makes First Repeat of DNA (9c) in the Verdon Gorge

Why it matters

Jakob Schubert's recent repeat of the DNA route, rated 9c, is significant not just for its difficulty but also as a learning moment for climbers at every level. First, it illustrates the importance of focused training on specific physical attributes such as finger strength and endurance. Schubert's ability to ascend this challenging line likely stems from a comprehensive training regime that prioritizes strength in the forearms and fingers, which are crucial for gripping small holds characteristic of high-level climbs. Recreational climbers should remember that improving these areas can lead to better performance on their projects, even if those projects are a few grades below 9c.

Moreover, Schubert's achievement also underscores the necessity of tactical climbing—being able to read routes efficiently and execute movements precisely under physical stress. Climbers should take away the idea that mastering technique is just as important as building strength. By focusing on both power and technique in their training, climbers can improve their ability to tackle complex sections of routes, enhancing overall success on challenging climbs. Incorporating drills that simulate the physical and mental challenges of hard climbs may yield positive results in personal climbing journeys.