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ascents

Oriane Bertone Climbs The Big Island (8C) in 5 Sessions

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November 1, 2026
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In an impressive display of skill and determination, Oriane Bertone has completed The Big Island, a challenging 8C boulder problem, in just five sessions. This achievement highlights her status as one of the top female climbers in the world.

Why it matters

Oriane Bertone's achievement of climbing The Big Island (8C) in only five sessions is a testament to her exceptional training and mental fortitude as a climber. For recreational climbers, this record not only exemplifies the power of focused training but also emphasizes the importance of technique and tactical approach. Bertone's ability to efficiently work through such a difficult problem showcases her mastery over her finger strength and explosive power, which are crucial in tackling high-end bouldering issues. Engaging in a local version of this process could involve setting aside blocks of time to focus on particularly tough problems, much like she did, rather than spreading resources too thin across multiple routes.

Moreover, Bertone's quick success also speaks to the significance of recovery in a climber’s training regimen. The five sessions suggest a well-planned approach that balances strenuous climbing with adequate rest, permitting her to perform at peak levels day after day. Recreational climbers often overlook recovery as a crucial component of their training. It is equally vital as strength training exercises. Recognizing that physical and mental recovery are necessary can result in better performance and greater consistency during training sessions, mirroring the strategic pacing observed in high-level climbs like Bertone's.

Related Training

Max Hangs Protocol for Maximum Finger Strength

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Intermediate Boulderer - Build-up 2 (Power)

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Intermediate Boulderer - Base Training

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Training Takeaway

This week, incorporate focused bouldering sessions on a challenging problem and purposely track your progress across each session. Prioritize rest days to enhance performance in subsequent climbing attempts and avoid burnout.

Train Like the Pros

Take your climbing to the next level with evidence-based training programs designed for all skill levels.

Read full article on 8a.nu

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4 weeks
•V3-V4

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