Optimized performance program for weekend warrior sports (5.11a-5.12a). 2 sessions/week, 160.5 moves/week.
Based on scientific research, community feedback, and proven results from climbers at your level.
Performance program for weekend warrior sports (5.11a-5.12a)
Make the most of your weekend climbing sessions with strategic endurance work and technique refinement
Peak performance period for projects and redpoint attempts. Minimal volume, maximum quality.
This 4-week mesocycle follows the Carlos V3 3+1 pattern: three progressive loading weeks followed by a deload week.
Training Frequency: 2 sessions/week Session Duration: 150 minutes Weekly Volume: ~217 moves at full (100%) volume — each week below scales this target
Learn the exercises, establish movement patterns, dial intensity.
Weekly volume target: ~174 moves (80% of full volume). Start at the bottom end of each prescribed set/rep range while you learn the exercises and dial in the intensities.
Warm Up
Route Redpoint (7a-7b)
LB Redpoint (V3)
Push-ups (V4)
Front Butterfly (TRX) (V4)
Warm Up
Boulder Redpoint (V3)
SB Redpoint (V4)
Rest: Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday
Full prescribed volume.
Weekly volume target: ~217 moves.
Repeat the Week 1 sessions (Friday, Saturday) — same exercises, same intensities — now at the full prescribed volume: use the complete set/rep ranges exactly as written above.
Increase volume or intensity.
Weekly volume target: ~239 moves (+10% over Week 2).
Same sessions (Friday, Saturday), same exercises and intensities as Week 1. Push volume to the top end of each prescribed set/rep range to add roughly 10% over Week 2. Warm-up stays unscaled.
Reduce volume, maintain intensity, recover.
Weekly volume target: ~130 moves (deload).
Deload week. Same sessions (Friday, Saturday) at the same intensities, but cut total volume to ~60%: drop to the bottom end of each set/rep range and finish each session early. Recovery is the goal — do not add work. Warm-up stays unscaled.
Generated and validated by the ClimbClaw training engine (Carlos V3 methodology).
💡 Community Insights:
"Longer climbing sessions may lead to better performance for some climbers"
"A proper warm-up can enhance performance, particularly when climbing for extended periods."
Feedback collected from 10,000+ Reddit discussions on r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering