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**Optimized Build-up 1 (PE) program for intermediate sport climbers (6c-7b)** Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue. This program follows Carlos V3 methodology with genetic algorithm optimization. It provides a complete week of training (Week 1 of the 3+1 pattern) that you can repeat with volume adjustments: - **Week 1**: 80% volume (introduction) - **Week 2**: 100% volume (build) - **Week 3**: 110% volume (peak) - **Week 4**: 60% volume (deload) ## Program Details **Training Frequency**: 3 sessions/week **Session Duration**: 150 minutes **Target Level**: 6c-7b (French) / 5.11a-5.12a (US) **Fitness Score**: 8.5/10 ## Weekly Schedule ### Monday - Power-Endurance Intervals **Warm-up (20 min)** - Easy climbing: 10-15 routes at 5c-6a - Dynamic movement prep - Shoulder mobility **Main Block (90 min)** - 4x4 Boulder Intervals: 4 problems, 4 times through - Intensity: 85% max - Rest: 3 min between rounds - Total: ~200 moves - Route Intervals (6c-7a) - 4 routes × 2 attempts each - Incomplete rest (3-4 min) - Focus: Maintaining intensity while pumped **Cool-down (20 min)** - Easy traversing - Antagonist work: Push-ups, reverse wrist curls - Stretching ### Wednesday - Capacity Building **Warm-up (20 min)** - Progressive climbing 5c → 6b - Route reading practice **Main Block (90 min)** - Linked Boulder Problems - 3-4 problems linked together - 6 sets total - Rest: 5 min between sets - Continuous Climbing - 20-30 min of non-stop movement - Grade: 6a-6b+ - Focus: Pace management and efficiency **Strength Block (30 min)** - Hangboard Repeaters - 7 sec on, 3 sec off × 6 reps - 3 sets per grip type - Intensity: 80% max **Cool-down (10 min)** - Light stretching - Core activation ### Sunday - Route Volume **Warm-up (15 min)** - Easy climbing and mobility **Main Block (110 min)** - High-Volume Route Climbing - 15-20 routes at 6b-7a - Focus: Movement quality and efficiency - Rest: As needed for quality - Project Attempts - 2-3 routes at 7a-7b - Work the moves, practice sequences - Mental focus: Staying calm when pumped **Cool-down (15 min)** - Easy downclimbing - Antagonist exercises - Full-body stretching ## Training Focus Developing power-endurance capacity through interval work. Higher intensity with incomplete recovery to build tolerance to fatigue. This phase prepares you for the power phase by increasing your capacity to handle high-intensity work. ## Key Principles - Follow CNS-demand ordering: HIGH → MEDIUM → LOW within each session - Maintain proper rest periods between sets and exercises - Adjust volume according to the 3+1 week pattern - Listen to your body and adjust if experiencing pain or excessive fatigue - Stay hydrated and fuel properly for long sessions ## Equipment Required - Indoor climbing wall - Hangboard/fingerboard (for finger strength exercises) - Timer - Training log - Climbing shoes (1-2 pairs) - Chalk ## Grade Conversion - 6c (French) ≈ 5.11a (US) - 7a (French) ≈ 5.11c (US) - 7b (French) ≈ 5.12a (US) --- *Generated using Carlos V3 methodology + Genetic Algorithm optimization*
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*Analysis, scores, and recommendations are educational. Results vary by execution and individual factors.
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Optimized build-up 2 (power) program for v0 beginner foundationss (V0-V1). 2 sessions/week, 150 moves/week.
Based on 10,000+ Reddit discussions from r/climbharder, r/climbing, r/bouldering
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